First Few Fodder Finished

One quarter of an entire regiment appears today!

Sort of, anyways. This unit is one quarter of a regiment, but model-wise it could be anywhere from a twenty-five to eighty percent or so. And that only accounts for one regiment, where I will probably need at least two since there are no Turnip players in the area to my knowledge.

Here is my favorite of the batch. I do not know how I managed to bend the bayonet like that without it breaking, but I am pleased nonetheless. The models are best arranged with the slouching or readied figures in front and the shouldered arm figures in the rear. It helps them rank up without gaps.

I had some difficulty with the knight bodies wearing large surcoats. In the future I think I will either use just the helmet or refrain from using these bodies as the result is too full-bodied for a fodder in my opinion.

I have yet to apply mud to the new batch as I am waiting on more square bases in the post. I will need to do so on their backs as the paint has blended together into a dull mass, and in the future I should apply less technical paint to that area if possible. Perhaps watering it down could help there.

With regards to painting, I have stuck with my original method by and large. Assembly for the first figure followed the guide in the Swollen Maglette. Assembly for the second followed the first, and so on and so forth. Hopefully this will lead to mutation as I copy copies of copies.

The basecoat was Doombull Brown for the pants, Black Templar for the ammunition pouch and shoes, XV-88 for the shoe covers, pouches, straps, and cufflinks. Zandri Dust was used for the bedroll and musket strap, but I changed it to XV-88 for the strap in future figures. Vallejo Scarlet was used for the red portions and The Fang for the blue. Dryad Bark was used on the tufts, wood, and backpack items, Rakarth Flesh was used on the hands. Leadbelcher was used for the metal and AK Interactive AK-2282 Aircraft Series Acrylic Paint - PC10 Late was used for the mush. It is a very strange shade and requires extreme shaking.

For the wash, I tried using the opposite of each colour to dull it down. Except red, which I wanted to stand out by using Carroburg Crimson. XV-88 and Zandri Dust were done in Biel-Tan Green, but in future figures I would reduce the weight used on the Zandri. Leadbelcher and Dryad Bark were done in the new quick-flow Nuln Oil since there was going to be extra weathering on them anyway. Doombull and Rakarth were done in Drakhof Nightshade and The Fang was done in Seraphim Sepia. Everything was then heavily washed in Army Painter Strong Tone, which left the figure glossy and wet looking.

To remove the glossiness the figure was hit with a matte varnish. Originally I did this several times, but in future figures I only did this once after the Strong Tone wash and once after the pigment effects were applied. It is important to not varnish after applying mud last since the mud effect is supposed to look wet.

After varnishing apply Typhus Corrosion over all. I have done this too heavily on many of the figures but the idea stands. After that, lightly apply AK Light Rust pigment onto the metal, wet it, then wipe it off with a spare brush and fingers. Make sure to get any lingering pockets of pigment. At this point also drybrush or pick out the tips of the tuft in Vallejo Scarlet.

Varnish again and then glue the figure to the base and apply Vallejo Russian Mud, the variety of it that comes in the big pots. Mud goes on the shoes, pant cuffs, and the back. I varnished after applying mud on this figure which is why it looks less wet than it could.

This recipe might seem on the outset more complicated than normal, but the trick is a lack of brush control. Many of the washes target large areas or the entire figure and a lot of mistakes are covered up by weathering effects so painting can be fast and relatively messy. Only the rust takes any focus and even then not too much.

Chaff are next, or Brutes perhaps.